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Whites: White on its own has a calming effect and stands out well in the shade. Its main purpose is to bring out the best in other colours.

Blues: Bright blue lifts one’s spirits and marries well with soft pinks, blue mauves, pink mauves, grey and white. Blue and white create a cool, soothing effect. Blues contrast well with yellows and oranges.

Pinks: Pinks are versatile and easy on the eye. Pale pinks are fine with silver leaves and white flowers. Jazzy, strong pinks enliven planting and can be a ‘tonic’ under the hot sun.

Reds: Red flowers startle, excite and impress. They add drama to a garden.

Oranges: Orange should be used with caution as it can look garish when the sun is out.

Yellows: Yellow is a very dominant colour and should also be used with care. It marries well with blue and white.

Mixed: Try not to plant a mixture of one variety beside a mixture of another variety because you will end up with a veritable fruit salad.

Sun and Shade   

Sunny spots and sun-lovers: Plants which have a full sun requirement means exactly that. Sun-lovers which get too much shade and not enough sun will perform poorly. They usually grow leggy, have weak stems, flop over and flower poorly.

Gardens invariably have areas of light, partial and dense shade.
LIGHT SHADE: It occurs under large open-branched trees and consists of areas that receive soft-dappled light for most of the day. There is no direct sunshine, but plenty of light. This is the easiest of the shady areas to garden.
PARTIAL SHADE: These are defined as those areas of the garden which receive some sun and some shade during the day. This is easy if the plants get morning sun and afternoon shade but it is difficult if the plants get morning shade and afternoon sun.


DENSE SHADE:
Very little will grow in dense, dark shade.

Steps to successful display of colour   

  1. Water the seedlings thoroughly in their trays, before planting.
  2. Planting is best done during the cool hours of the day.
  3. Dig over the chosen area thoroughly and remove any weeds.
  4. Prepare the area well with compost and add in a handful of organic fertilizer per square meter.
  5. To remove the seedlings from their tray cavities, support the stem with a finger on either side and gently push the plant from the bottom using a stick or a pencil. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT OF THE TRAY BY THEIR STEMS OR LEAVES.
  6. Ensure that the plant is placed in the soil at the same depth as it was in the trays. DO NOT BURY THE STEMS.
  7. Gently firm the soil around the roots to remove air pockets in the soil without compacting the soil too much.
  8. Water well with a fine rose sprayer so that the soil is not washed off the roots.
  9. Foliar feed regularly with any foliar fertilizer for best results.
  10. Deadheading regularly will prolong the flowering period of your seedlings.
If you have problems do not hesitate to phone us and speak to one of our horticulturalists. They should be able to assist you.

Common Pests and Diseases   

Prevention is always better.

Harmful insects and diseases usually attack weak unhealthy plants. As soon as you see signs of pests or diseases check whether the plants are being fed and watered correctly and are growing in suitable conditions for their needs.

If there are any problems even when conditions seem to be optimal, seek expert advice. Remember pesticides can be harmful to humans and friendly insects if used incorrectly.

Identifying Common Pests & Diseases

Phytophthora
Root and Crown Rot: The problem is most often detected in flowerbeds that have been planted with same species year after year. The plants that are more vulnerable to this disease are Pansy, Petunia, Snapdragon and violas.
The crown base or lower stem of infected plants normally rot at or near soil line, as the disease progress the entire plant usually turn yellow or wilting followed by complete death of the plants.

Control:

  1. Crop rotation is recommended for the management of Phytophthora, but do not alternate planting with the above plants, e.g. do not pull out Pansy and plant Petunia or Snapdragon, but use plants like Marigolds, Zinnia, Poppies, Calendula, etc.
  2. Improve soil drainage - the disease is associated with heavy clay soils.
  3. Allow the top 1/2 to 1 inch of soil to dry out before next watering.
  4. It is also important to raise flat planting areas so that the water will drain off rapidly and not saturates soils.

Thielaviopsis
Black Root: Black Root is the fungal disease that usually starts at root tips and through root hair. This disease is a problem on pansies during the late summer months when temperatures are high. The symptoms with seedlings are stunting and a pale green to yellow discoloration of leaves.

Control:
Crop rotation is recommended for the management of black root disease. Avoid planting pansies during late summer hot months.

Snails & Slugs
Causes holes in the leaves of young plants and can chew right through the stems of newly planted seedlings.

Control:
Put down snail bait immediately after planting and re-apply until plants are older and well established.

Cutworms
These green-grey caterpillar live in the soil and only appear at night when they eat the stems of young seedlings at or just under the ground, which causes the seedlings to wilt and fall over.

Control:
Sprinkle granular cutworm bait over before planting.

Aphids
Small sucking insects usually found on new growth. They come in shades of green, red or brown and they all have fat little pear shaped bodies. They feed by piercing plants and sucking the juice of plant sap result in leaves being distored, curled and failing to develop. They also secrete a sticky substance called honeydew that often results in the colonization of an ugly sooty black fungus.

Control:
Spray with a suitable insecticide for sucking insects.

Red spider mites
Can be identified as minute red dots on the underside of leaves and is a problem in hot dry conditions. Leaves turn mottled yellow and fall off prematurely.

Control:
Water the undersides of plants and avoid stressed plants due to lack of water and food. Spray with a suitable incecticide.

Powdery mildew
The white powdery deposit found on leaves, stems and buds of plants such as poppies, dalia, verbena and zinnias.

Control:
Don't water late afternoon or at night. Make sure sun loving plants are planted in full sun and shade loving plants get enough light. Or spray with a suitable fungicide.

Rust
The red or brown powdery substance found on the undersides of the leaves of plants such as snapdragons calendula and dianthus. Rust takes nutrition from the plant. Bad infestation may result in total lost of leaves and sometims complete death of plants.

Control:
Avoid watering late afternoon or at night and spray with a suitable fungicide.

Beetles
Such as Chafer Beetle are medium sized brown or greyish beetle, which are only active at night, by the day hide away. They make large holes on the leaves and or petals sometime leaving only main veins. They are strongly attracted to light and may become a nuisance in the house during early summer evenings.

Control:
Pick off by hand where possible or spray with a suitable insecticide for chewing insects.

Mealy Bug
These are wingless, oval pinkish or greyish blue covered with white waxy powder. They excrete copious quantity of honeydew over their host plants on which black sooty moulds develop. They generally avoid sunlight and become abundant on plants with dense foilage or plants growing in the shade.

Control:
Hose down with a strong jet of water or spray with suitable insecticide. Ensure the ants are controlled because they may spread infestation. Or spray with suitable fungicide.